European Asia Minor
Since I was ten years old, I have been a reader of maps, scouring atlases, fascinated by the discovery of countries new to me, wondering whether I would reach any of those distant lands. The Vatican, Bhutan, Hungary, Ecuador and many others were part of my early geographical vocabulary. Nearly 60 years later I have managed to visit 48 countries and territories, and still counting. An essay I wrote during this most recent trip is about me being a reader, not only of books but of everything around me, reading the local cultural vocabulary in the faces, buildings and countryside I find in my new environment and surroundings.
I am often asked, since I only speak English, do I have trouble communicating in all these foreign lands? My response always is an empathic no, no problem, everyone and and everything speaking to me in language I understand, that of life itself in all its nuanced variety. I have discovered that making an effort to reach out to someone often results in the most basic of comprehensions. After all, we are all human animals, linked together whether we can admit it or not. Hello, I say, and 99 percent of the time, Hello is the response back. For years I've wanted to say hello to the countries in Asia Minor. In no surprise to me, the response was "Welcome, glad to see you."
Tbilisi, Georgia
I needed an inexpensive location to base my travels, and Georgia certainly more than met my expectations. A loaf of fresh bread was 35 cents. A kilo (2 1/2 pounds) of fresh green beans for 45 cents. Handmade wool mittens for $4.00. The apartment I had for 27 days was $17.00 per day. The Metro fare was 45 cents. Most importantly, and the primary reason I choose Tbilisi, was the cost of local thermal baths, four dollars to soak in the hottest and strongest mineral water I have ever immersed myself in. What an amazing experience that was, 15 minutes and I was limp. I'll never forget that water.
Wanting to see more of the country, I travelled north to Lagodeski and hiked in the South Caucasus mountains. On my last full day, I took a minivan ride to Josef Stalin's home town of Gori, where I toured his museum. I returned to Tbilisi via a train, unknowingly buying a last-class ticket and finding myself in a crammed train compartment shoulder to shoulder with the locals, stacks of boxes and suitcases occupying the aisle. That was a wonderful surprise. Stepping out into the corridor, I watched Georgia past by, sheep herds and low mountains outside the window.
I realize I would be amiss by not mentioning the stray dogs that are everywhere in Tbilisi. Rather than treated as a nuisance, the dogs are a kind of canine royalty, comical as people carefully make way for sleeping hounds lounging on busy sidewalks. Getting out of my cab at the airport, in the main entrance was a happy dog dreaming away, no one disturbing his slumber. Remarkable. In Seattle, there would be an uproar, with the pooch carted way to the local pound. Not in Tbilisi, everyone bowing in acquiescence to Queen and King Bowser.
Not Enough Time in Armenia
Regrettable that I didn't take more time visiting Yerevan and the country of Armenia. I felt immediately comfortable in Yerevan, more cosmopolitan than the giant tourist trap that is Tbilisi. I thoroughly enjoyed my two quick days. On my last evening there, I sat on the edge of Republic Square, enjoying the busy urban scene as the sun closed down upon a mid-autumn day. That moment, a few minutes of utter contentment, was maybe the highlight of my entire trip. I had finally found a city new to me I really liked, and unfortunately, I had to leave. Will I ever return? I have no idea.
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